Day 3: A Gentle Stroll into Lynmouth

Today was a much easier day, and a welcome break after the intensity of the past two. I woke up and enjoyed a fantastic breakfast at the Blue Ball Inn, which set the tone nicely for the day. My destination was Lynmouth, just a couple of miles away, so I took my time.

I followed signs for the public footpath, which cut through a beautiful valley just down from the inn. The path wrapped around a ridge, offering views through dense trees and glimpses of the valley beyond. It felt different from the rugged coast path I’d grown used to—more peaceful and shaded, like walking through a secret woodland corridor.

Eventually, I rejoined the main South West Coast Path at Beacon Tor. The view from here was breathtaking. I could see the coastline stretching ahead and catch sight of both Lynmouth and Lynton in the distance. I rested here for about an hour beneath the warm sun, letting the view and the breeze wash over me—a quiet, reflective pause in the journey.

Using my guidebook, I figured out the route down into Lynmouth and looked ahead to what the next part would be. The walk was a bit longer than expected, and my legs were definitely still recovering from Day 2—tense, achy, and reminding me of every climb I’d done before.

On the way down, I passed two men coming the other way. One of them said, “We saw you yesterday—you were resting at the top of the hill.” I remembered them. They told me they’d been walking the SWCP over the past 11 years, doing it in stages. I explained that I was aiming to walk the entire thing in one go. They were surprised but encouraging, saying how incredible it would be. That little interaction gave me a lift.

Arriving in Lynmouth was a bit surreal. After two fairly isolated days, the town felt bustling and alive. Families were eating fish and chips on the grass, kids played nearby, and everyone seemed to be soaking up the sun. I felt a bit out of place among the crowds—still carrying the rhythm of the trail and the solitude of nature.

I decided to join in and get some fish and chips, sitting on the sea wall to eat and and take in the sights. A couple asked what I was doing. I told them about the walk and the journey so far—they were surprised and intrigued. It felt nice to share.

In Lynmouth, you'll find a striking statue called “The Walker” on the Esplanade, just across from the Exmoor National Park Centre along the waterfront. Unveiled in May 2017 by BBC Countryfile's John Craven, this bronze sculpture by Richard Graham marks the convergence of four major national trails: the Coleridge Way, Two Moors Way, South West Coast Path, and Tarka Trail. Designed to celebrate Lynmouth’s role as a hub for walkers and adventurers, the statue invites visitors to stop, take a photo, and even shake his outstretched hand—a symbolic gesture of welcome to all who pass through.

Next, I queued for the land train to Lynton. I don’t think I’ve ever been on one before (not that I can remember), so I was oddly excited. While waiting, I chatted with Michael, an older gentleman wearing a straw hat. It turned out he previously lived in St Columb Minor, not far from my home in Newquay. We talked about Cornwall, the trail, and what lay ahead. He told me how beautiful the Valley of Rocks would be. When I mentioned my cow encounter the other day, he said, “If they come toward you, put your arms out. If they keep coming, wave them. And if they still keep coming—wave them harder and hope you’ll fly.”

The land train itself was… an experience. At times I couldn’t tell whether I was enjoying it or about to throw up. Still, I was grateful—it saved a long, steep climb and dropped me near my accommodation.

I stayed at The Valley of Rocks Hotel, a single ensuite room for £32.40—an absolute bargain. It gave me a chance to wash some clothes, recharge, and prepare for the next stage. I took it easy that evening, knowing that tomorrow would be a bigger challenge.

Next stop: Combe Martin (or will it be....)